Hallöchen,
weil mich schon 2,3 Leute gefragt haben, ob ich weiß wer erst nach dem Härten den Schliff (Flach bzw Hohl) anbringt, dachte ich mir das wäre an sich ja ein interessanter Thread.
Zum besseren Verständnis:
Mit Schliff anbringen nach dem Härten meine ich,dass sie zuerst den Rohling anfertigen..also Konturen finishen,Löcher bohren...dann härten od härten lassen und erst nach alle dem beginnen den Flach bzw Hohlschliff,anzubringen
Von denen ich in den Foren gelesen habe,dass sies machen :
Martin Olexey (After talking to Brock this morning I'm gonna get the holes drilled, stamp them and put in the thumb serrations then send them out.
So I'll lay in the bevels post heat treat.
CJS Knives
Daniel Fairly ( I never let the blades get hot or even very warm when grinding. I am using new rough grit belts in the video, in my opinion
new belts are key in keeping heat down while grinding....It is of the utmost importance to keep the knives cool while grinding, I
always adhere to that rule post heat treat.)
Vox ( Grind after HT!! I only "grind" before if it is a forged blade and dont dó those anymore...)
Zermeno Knives (Post heat treat is the only way to go.)
Ray Rogers
I have ground all my blades after HT for the last 12 years or so, regardless of how thick the steel is. On really thick blades I may rough grind the bevels but up to 3/16" are ground completely after HT. I started doing this because of warping that I was getting on thin fillet knives when I ground them before the HT.
I do not find belt wear to be excessive, I use one fresh 60 grit ceramic belt per large blade and the belt is still useful for less demanding work afterwards. I would expect to grind several of the blades you are making with one belt. Grind bare handed and there is no chance of damaging the HT since your fingers will complain before you reach 200 degrees.....
Kirby Bletcher
I heat treat all my folder blades before grinding the bevels. The only exception is when I need to bend the blades to pass other blades in a multi-blade folding knife.
Like it was already said keep everything cool and you will have no problems.
Ed Caffrey
I tend to HT before grinding on blades that are 1/8" thick or less.....especially on something like kitchen cutlery. I will generally profile the blade, then heat treat, then grind the bevels. The up side is that things tend not to warp....any warp in a blade that's 1/8" or less, and has had the bevel ground, usually means starting over because there just isn't enough material to save it. The down side is that you really do have to pay close attention to what your doing!
Frank Niro
I do liner lock folders only and heat treat my blades before grinding. Besides avoiding the possibility of warping I find that for me the greater resistance helps me to keep the grinding under control.
Tham Knives
I grind folder blades and small fixed blades after ht.
Barker Knives
Depends on the complexity of the grind for me. I like to heat treat first before grinding double edge and complex grinds to avoid warpage. Otherwise I grind first, heat treat and then finish grinding at the higher grits
Barkes Knife Shop
It totally depends on the kind of steel you are using. I personally like to rough cut my blades out and stamp, drill holes, Spanish notch, before I heat treatment my knives. This way I can reduce the possibilities of warpage of my blades. When I am finished with the heat treat and tempering process I then place my knives on the surface grinder and removed the black/gray bar from the steel. By doing this I also know for sure everything is absolutely flat.
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John Fraps , A.T. Barr and several other well known makers grind after the heat treat and love it. John told me he would not do it any other way.
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AS for HT before grinding, properly hardened and cryo'd 154 is darn near impossible to get below RHC60. We temper it at 500F normally. You'd have to be really careless to get it that hot
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i was watching one of snody's videos and it looked like he was heat treating blades with no grinds on them.
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Jonny Mac Knives
Personally, I think for medium to larger fixed blades there is no reason to not grind pre heat treat, just due to the natur of the blade and how easy it is to finish. As far as folder blades, which in my opinion are harder to get the grind jsut right on, I would suggest grinding post heat treat. Also, after lots of labor trying to line up my swedges just right for finishing after heat treat, I've decided that from here on out I will grind all of my swedges after heat treat.....and while I'm back to that subject, after heat treat, as long as you grind your blades holding them with your bare hands you should be ok. As far as I know, the steel will get too hot for you to touch it way before it gets hot enough to mess up the heat treat, so go by that and you don't have to worry about messing up your hardened steel.
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Ray Ennis...I watch Ray Ennis in a video on Youtube and he grinds all his blades post HT
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Ealyknives
I grind hunters, neck knives and others pre-heat treat. I have been making a lot of kitchen knives lately and those I grind post heat treat.
Caswell Knives
Grinding after HT is not uncommon. It's often the preferred order if you're using the big CNC flatgrinders used for production knives.
I don't notice a whole lot of difference on grinding with the new, quality belts. Just have to keep things cool while doing it.
I use a mister or sometimes a cold-air gun and keep a close eye on things while doing it. If you're grinding freehand, you just have to make lots of trips to the dunk tank.
John R. Fraps
I grind all my blades and springs after heat treat, also maybe inefficiently, surface grind to specific thickness often after heat treat.
I am not too scientific about grinding to excessive heat but grind holding the balde in my fingers/hands and and keep a dip can real close to the grinder....
So far, steel is much below hardness change before the nerves in the fingers tell me it is NOW dipping time. And yes, there is probably a smarter way to do it, but most all of my blades are small compared to the makers who do those big beautiful straight knives.....and I do use only variable speed grinders and seldom run them real fast at all....
L.R.Harner Knives
cuts down on warping
i do about half and half before and after heat treating
to be safe
one nice thing about some of the cpm steels i work with is the tempering temp is 1000 so you have to be realy boneheaded to burn that when grinding hardened blades
Arthur Washburn
I make folders and the majority of the blades are .110 or thinner. It is easier to keep the blades straight and true during heat treat if they are not ground. I have to be a bit more carefull after heat treat to not ruin the temper. I use a ceramic belt and keep the blade very cool.
I now have a Rockwell tester and test each blade for proper Rc before grinding and re-do the heat treat as nessassary.
Kit Carson
I do all my grinding after heat treat.
nicht alles ist up to date,vielleicht machens manche jetzt auch wieder anders, aber zumindest das hab ich mal gefuden,wie ich in den Foren usw gesucht habe
es soll jetzt keine Grundsatzdiskussion entstehen
das soll ein reiner Infothread sein...mich interessiert halt immer wie die Macher arbeiten
Vielleicht wisst ihr ja noch den ein od anderen Macher der auch so vorgeht
vG
Fred