Dependable source for diamond products

  • Since i'm a fan of using diamond products for sharpening & polishing knife edges i'm always looking for good sources.
    A few months ago i found this small US company: http://techdiamondtools.com, and they also have a Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/lapidarypaste


    Owner: Yuriy Ma
    Address: 10511 Glencoe Drive
    Cupertino, California
    95014 USA


    I exchanged a few e-mails with Yuriy and bought 100 carat (about 20 grams) of 230 grit diamond powder from him, paid with Paypal and received my order in about a week from the US, neatly packaged in a double plastic pouch inside a small bubble envelope.
    I'm currently using the powder glued to the surface of a Rubber Wheel for sharpening ceramic knives and various high carbide steels, and i must say with very good results so far.
    When my stock of various diamond compounds runs out i'm also going to order some from here.


    Now i'm not sure if i put this in the right place on the forum, i just wanted to share this useful information with my fellow knife afi's here.
    If it's not allowed please move it elsewhere or remove.

  • Here's an example of how i use the diamond powder from Yuriy.


    The knife is made by Ewout vd Gronden (E.A.G. Knives), a Dutch part-time knife maker who spends a lot of thought, time and effort into making about two knives a month.
    For steels he likes to use D2 and N690Co which he hardens himself with very good results (i've tested a few of them in the field and provided him with feedback)
    After he finishes a knife he sends it to me to give it the final edge.
    He also lets me know his wishes regarding edge angle & edge finish, and i go to work.


    This is one of his larger field grade knives i did recently, and the picture was taken by the maker before i put on the edge.
    Steel is N690Co, blade is 18 cm long, and the handle is canvas Micarta.



    These are pics taken by me with it's new edge, in this case of a pre-specified and almost exact 35 degrees inclusive.
    Bevels were ground with the Rubber Wheel coated with 230 grit diamond powder, after which i only removed the tiny burr with a Paper Wheel coated with 1 micron diamond compound.
    This provides for a strong edge that is literally treetopping sharp along it's entire length, yet still has a lot of bite.
    (pics can be clicked 2 x to get a better view of the scratch pattern the 230 grit diamond powder creates)




  • As always impressive work on your sharpening skills.


    Maybe a slight offtopic question: On a regular basis you present your impressive sharpening skills. Is it possible to have a look at your equipment/tools - is it worth a couple of pictures? Is it all freehanded on different leather and paper wheels? Please excuse me if this has been asked and answered before.


    Also how do those who receive your resharpened mirror-finished blades maintain the edge expecting them to be working knives?

  • My workplace is in the back of our small cellar, which we also use to store our bikes and other stuff we don't use on a daily basis.
    So nothing fancy as you can see :)


    Overview:


    My Tormek T7 wetsharpener fitted with an SB-250 Black Silicon stone:


    My red Creusen DS7500TS benchgrinder with Paper Wheel coated with 220 grit SiC on the left, and my still experimental Rubber Wheel coated with 230 grit diamond powder on the right:


    My collection of different Paper Wheels & Rubber Wheels:


    Most edges are indeed freehanded on the Tormek and the various Paper Wheels/Rubber Wheels, but for certain types of edges like tanto's (as well as scissors and chisels) i use the Tormek with jigs, like on this Strider GB:



    As you can see i didn't refine the scratch pattern on purpose (as i think it looks good on a knife like this), only removed the burr on the Tormek leather honing wheel, followed by some stropping on a leather handstrop coated with 6 micron diamond paste to create a slightly convex microbevel.
    The straight part of the edge now measures around 25 degrees inclusive while the slanted part is about 30 degrees inclusive.


    The (semi-polished) mirror edges i put on knives are best maintained on hard leather or MDF strops coated with some diamond compound, but on many working knives i don't put a mirror edge.
    Most Chef knives for instance i do for restaurants only get sharpened on the Tormek with the silicon carbide stone graded to about a 1000 grit, as based on feedback that finish seems to work both the best & the longest.

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