Show your Paper Wheel edges

A niece of mine is an avid amateur Chef (but not yet a knife afi), and this black ceramic knife (a rebranded Kyocera) is one of her favorites in the kitchen, as due to the tougher blade material the edges can be made thinner and thus the knife cuts better than a white ceramic version.
Longtime use however (not always on a suitable cutting board) plus storing it unprotected in a drawer between a bunch of steel bladed knives had blunted the edge to a point next to unusable, complete with quite a lot of (micro) chips and a broken tip.

This is the knife as it was when i received it.
(when you click the pictures 2 x you can see the chips clearly)

This is the knife after sharpening.
I reprofiled the rather bad factory edge to an ever so slight convex edge of +/- 25 degrees inclusive, and the sharpness is just hairwhittling (only towards the root, not to the point)
It easily slices single layer toiletpaper (torn apart 3-layered version) and a tomato of course.
Removing the chips and setting the new bevel was done with a Tormek T7, refining & convexing with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and semi-polishing with a second Paper Wheel coated with 6 micron diamond compound.

Specs:

Overall length: 11.0 inch (28,0 cm)
Blade length: 5.8 inch (14,8 cm)
Blade thickness: 1,84 mm
Blade type: black ceramic / saber-hollow
Thickness behind the edge: 0,4 mm

The first clip shows the slicing of a piece of standard 3-layered toilet paper, for the second clip i peel off 1 layer and slice the remaining 2 layers, and the third clip shows the slicing of just the remaining single layer of toilet paper:

Slicing a tomato:

The owner of this Sebenza 25 bought the knife brand new through an official dealer in the Netherlands, but although he was and is still very pleased with the knife itself, he soon found that the factory edge didn't cut too well.

He tried to improve things with the help of a Spyderco Sharpmaker and a leather strop loaded with some green compound, but to no avail.

So he sent the knife to me, and the first thing i did was to measure the edge angle.

According to my Tormek Angle Gauge it measured 50 degrees inclusive on the straight part of the edge, going up to 55 degrees inclusive from the belly to the point.(!)

This is how the knife looked before sharpening:

First i removed the apex of the old edge by cutting a few times lightly into an old silicon carbide stone, after which i reprofiled it freehand on my Tormek SB-250 Blackstone to an even 30 degrees inclusive.

This was followed by a Paper Wheel with 220 grit SiC to smoothen the grindlines made by the Tormek, then refined with a second Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and finally removed the burr with a third Paper Wheel coated with 0.25 diamond compound. (this leaves the 15 micron scratch pattern intact as much as possible to preserve bite)

The resulting edge treetops the hair on the back of my hand, can slice single-ply toilet paper, and survives a few cuts into my laminated testblock without any visible damage (checked under bright light with the loupe in my Victorinox SwissChamp)

This is how the knife looks after sharpening:

The owner of this Sebenza 25 personally checked out several of this model at the dealer (Knivesandtools NL), and all of these Sebenza's had worse edges than the one he finally bought, but he already knew someone who could fix that.

And i've had quite a few more brand new CRK's come in this way (with overly large edge angles and/or completely blunt.

For several years now Knivesandtools send unhappy CRK customers to me, which is nice, but of course shouldn't be necessary with a brand new knife, especially a CRK which always comes with a card stating that the knife is very sharp.

Spyderco in general can do a much better job.