Beiträge von kwakster

About 2 montsh ago i bought a cheap but speed controlled Parkside PBS 900B2 belt sander together with 2 sets of equally cheap aluminium oxide belts at the LIDL supermarket for just under 50 Euro (about 53 US dollar), mainly for the straightforward thinning/regrinding of kitchen knives, which it does very well.
I spray the belts with WD40 before use, which helps to cool those thin blades during grinding quite effectively, plus it makes the grit cut noticeably faster.

I've used this machine for the first two rough reshaping steps on the scout knife, and this is how the blade looks atm.
I tried to avoid as much as possible grinding to a burr, and further convex shaping will be done by hand with various wet & dry SiC papers backed by a glossy magazine.
The sheath has also been restitched by hand with strong white nylon thread plus i waxed it twice with Granger's beeswax.

Recently i bought this rather large & sterile Solingen made scout knife from the '50's or '60's as a modifying project.
The plan is to change the blade from a low saber grind with a buffed to death obtuse edge into a full convex grind with a crisp apex in the region of 30 degrees inclusive.
This would remove the current non-matching grinds on both sides of the blade, make the knife a much better overall user & chopper, and it would also help to make the saw/notcher on the back work a bit better.

Next i'm going to exchange the current miniature guard for a larger and more functional version, give the handle a bit of a palm swell for a better grip when chopping, glue all handle parts in place, and finally treat the leather & fiber washers to a few coats of beeswax.
I will also restitch the sheath as the old thread has dryrotted away completely.

The knife as i received it:

Specs:

Overall length: 13.39 inches (34,0 cm)
Blade length: 8.18 inches (20,8 cm)
Blade thickness: 6,5 mm
Steel: hot drop-forged carbon steel
Handle material: brass guard, leather & fiber washers, aluminium pommel
Weight: 384 grams
Sheath: Leather

Two reviews of this useful little flashlight:

http://www.candlepowerforums.c…H-Alkaline-Li-ion)-Review

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42939

Just bought a second K18 as a present for a friend of mine who lives in Germany, this time in hard anodized black aluminum.
I think he will like it,

A few weeks ago i bought this little Ultratac K18 in stainless steel on E-Bay, and yesterday it arrived neatly packaged in thick bubble wrap.
It's an AAA flashlight, that is also factory rated for use with 3,7 Volt lithium-ion 10440 batteries.
I ordered mine complete with a micro-USB charger & one unprotected Trustfire 10440 battery.
A few protected 10440's are still on their way.

Packaging:

Contents:

Besides my old Fenix LD01 (which stopped working after almost 10 years of service):

Micro-USB charger (only for charging a 10440 battery):

Manual:

Tested the light a bit last night, and everything seems to work as it should.
Only had to put a drop of Nano-Oil on the threads & O-ring as these were bone dry.
Considering the small size of the light the output on high is almost unbelievable, but it also gets quite hot in a few minutes.
A few night time beam shots follow later.

How about a Powertac Scholar:http://powertacusa.com/Scholar-Penlight
Not only a tactical pen but a nice AAA powered flashlight as well.

I have been using a Powertac E5 since 2012, and i'm still very happy with it.
Definitely quality flashlights.

From the same owner, a small Sebenza made in 2014.
Disassembled & cleaned for the last time in January 2016, and put together using 85 as well as 10 weight Nano-Oil.
Has been used to cut a lot of cardboard boxes as well as 5 oranges a day since then, and was rinsed afterwards under a hot tap, never disassembled.

Just took it apart for the first time again.
Corrosion on the pivot area of the blade is less than on the Sebenza 25, but the bushing has suffered quite a lot.
(pics can be clicked 2 x for a bit more detail)

I don't know if CRK grease would have done a better job protecting the blade from the orange juice, but my guess is that most lubricants would have been dissolved by the citric acid, especially given the repeated & prolonged exposure to it.
From testing a few years ago i've learned that the citric acid in just one lemon was enough to corrode the sharp apex away from the edge on a ZDP-189 kitchen knife in about 15 minutes after cutting the lemon into slices and not washing or rinsing the blade afterwards.

In a corrosion test done on a few forums a while ago by member Loonybin a product called Eezox proved to be the clear winner, while Nano-Oil finished somewhere in the middle of the pack, and CRK grease wasn't tested.
On the subject of lubricating properties however (which weren't part of that specific test) Loonybin stated that 5 weight Nano-Oil was the best lubricant he had ever come across.
Personally i like & use all of the Nano-Oil products, from the 5 weight to the Nano-grease, and so far i've found nothing better.
I even use Nano-Oil products as additives in both the engine & transmission of our 11 year old Toyota, and fuel consumption changed from +/- 1 in 12,5 km to +/- 1 in 15 km.
I don't think that the Nano-Oil itself played a part in the corrosive reaction on this Sebenza, nor have i ever found this to be the case when using it for any other applications.

The Sebenza is now put together again using only the 5 weight Nano-Oil, as besides very good lubricating properties this almost watery thin version also has very good penetrating properties, something i think could be of benefit with this degree of pitting in the blade steel.
The knife action feels like new again, and the pivot pitting doesn't translate into any tactile feedback.

Something to consider when using Nano-Oil is that although the various oils themselves do take part in the initial lubrication process, their main function is to act as a transport mechanism for the nano particles, which are responsible for the more long term lubrication once they are embedded in the phosphor bronze and the blade steel.
To get maximum embedding i re-assemble the knife with a few drops of oil on washers & pivot area, then proceed to overtighten the pivot, open & close the blade several times (so while the blade feels a bit stuck), and then open the pivot screw just enough so the blade falls closed when the lockbar is held to the side.

The lube i used on this Sebenza was 85 weight Nano-Oil on the washers and a few tiny drops of 10 weight Nano-Oil between pivot & blade.
This provides the user with a little easier "hydraulic" opening & closing action compared to CRK grease and also lasts a long time.
I always set the pivot tight enough so there isn't even a hint of blade play, yet the blade falls closed on it's own once the lockbar is held aside with my thumb.

@ ex vento: you could be on to something.
Maybe the holes in the washers played a role too by holding the citric acid longer than closed washers would have done, but that is just me speculating.
BTW: just before disassembling & cleaning the knife still opened & closed comparable to one that has dried CRK grease in it's pivot.

The owner of this Sebenza 25 religiously eats an orange every day at breakfast; the fruit is cut with the knife into several parts, and afterwards the knife is rinsed under a hot tap.
Over time the orange juice slowly found it's way into the pivot, making the action sticky and the knife slow to open.
Last time the knife was opened was in the first week of March 2016, and today i opened it again.

This is how the S35VN blade surface looks after i cleaned off all the sticky gunk, first with a soft tootbrush and some dishwashing liquid, then with some nail polish remover, and finally in an ultrasonic cleaner (to get the last debri out of the pits)
Given enough time the citric acid in the orange juice clearly seems to damage the S35VN steel, and in some spots the pitting is deep enough to trap the point of a needle.
Pics can be clicked 2 x for a bit more detail.

Hinderer XM-18 Slicer grind in S35VN steel.

According to my Tormek angle gauge the factory edge angle measured between 45 and 50 degrees inclusive, while the thickness of the steel just behind that edge went from 0.7 mm at the heel to 0.6 mm at the tip.

The knife is going to be used as a hunting folder, and the owner had 2 wishes: if possible no visually wide bevels, plus he wanted to be able to maintain the new edge on a Spyderco Sharpmaker.

Before sharpening:

Edge reprofiled to an almost exact 35 degrees inclusive with a Paper Wheel coated with 220 grit SiC, after which the burr was removed with a second Paper Wheel coated with 0.25 micron diamond compound.

The new edge is what i would call sticky sharp.

After sharpening:

That is a very beautiful knife,

Did this user Spyderco PM2 in S30V steel for a customer who had seen pictures online of another PM2 in S110V steel i did earlier, and which are also somewhere in this thread.
The man wanted the exact same full mirror edge he had seen on the other knife, it had to be 30 degrees inclusive, and it also had to have a guaranteed hair whittling sharpness.
Of course i told him that this S30V is not the best steel for a full mirror edge, but it was what he wanted,

The old edge had a few flat spots and a bit of a rounded point from use, but nothing serious.
Total time i spent on this knife was one hour, in a succession of Paper Wheels with 15, 6, 3, and 1 micron diamond compound.
As a comparison: the same full mirror edge on that PM2 in S110V steel the man saw online took me two hours.
Most of this time is going into the many visual checks i do in between with my Victorinox loupe under bright light, not into the actual sharpening.

These are the quick pics i also sent to the customer, and they can be clicked twice for a bit more detail.
The owner was satisfied btw.

This is how Simon Hengle, the owner of Tora Blades sharpens a kukri:

I use basically the same method: various kinds of waterproof SiC paper on the back of a writing block (less chance of rounding the apex), clamped together on the edge of a sturdy table.
That way you can use both hands for sharpening.

Sure, if you send me a PM we can discuss what is possible,

And the result, after a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound & deburring with a second Paper Wheel with 0.25 diamond compound.
Both edges are treetopping sharp.

A Florentine Nr.2 Chef Knife from a professional Dutch sous-Chef after resharpening, as it sadly had a subpar factory/workshop edge.
The new edge was tested after sharpening by cutting several times into a laminated wooden testblock, and afterwards showed zero edge damage when seen through a loupe.
The parlour trick with the tomato was just icing on the cake.

Specs:

Overall length: 14.76 inch (37,5 cm)
Blade length: 9.0 inches (23,0 cm)
Maximum blade thickness: 2,75 mm
Thickness behind the edge: +/- 0,28 mm
Steel: Sandvik 14C28N (from Aldo, the New Jersey steel baron) at 61 HRC with cryo treatment
New edge type: very slightly convex
New edge angle: between 25 & 30 degrees inclusive
New edge finish: 230 grit diamond
Handle material: leather/metal/plastic washers and brass bolsters & endcap.

https://florentinekitchenknives.com/

Modified this vintage Cold Steel Shinobu tanto from the '80's into a much pointier version, with a slightly convex zero secondary edge of +/- 30 degrees inclusive & matching straight edge bevels.
Not yet finished with polishing the edges (still have 0.25 micron to do), but after 1 micron diamond compound they already whittle one of my chest hairs about 3,0 cm from the point of holding.

All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy,

First resharpened the old edge with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound to get rid of the damaged sections in the apex, then refined it just one step with a second Paper Wheel coated with 6 micron diamond compound.
The new apex can whittle a chest hair towards the hair root (this is noticeably easier than towards the point of the hair), and it also has a little more bite.
Will see how this edge finish holds up in our kitchen, as the knife is already in use again:

Currently busy with the same mod of a (user) Gerber Applegate-Fairbairn folder like i did earlier in post #13.
This is how the knife looked when i received it from the owner, still with a single edge & an edge angle between 40 and 45 degrees inclusive:

And this is how the knife looks after grinding the new edge on the back of the blade & trying to match it with the reprofiled edge on the other side.

The scratch pattern complete with burr remains still present on the apex comes from a Rubber Wheel coated with +/- 170 grit diamond powder & wax (as i haven't made a Paper Wheel with the same diamond powder yet) which i used for this job.

The idea was to make the 2 edges / 4 bevels as visually similar in width & curvature as i could, with a specific edge angle of +/- 35 degrees inclusive, without damaging the names on the blade, and to create a new point that would be centered as much as possible.

Trying to achieve all these things at the same time freehand, together with many checks with a loupe in between passes isn't easy for me, so i took my time.
Tomorrow i plan to continue with 15 micron diamond compound on a Paper Wheel for one of those bling & bite finishes, after which i'm going to take a few more pics.

Waterstones are still the only choice to sharpen & polish Japanese single bevel knives made from simple carbon steel types.
The Paper Wheels are simply not capable to sharpen those like they should be sharpened.

But if you need to be able to sharpen & polish knives made from more modern steels (especially PM steels with high (vanadium) carbide volumes) that have secondary edges, and do it within a reasonable time frame, a set of Paper Wheels with CBN and/or diamond compounds would give you far superior results.

And it is a misconception that sharpening with the Wheels is difficult, as most people i know of seem to master the basics quite fast.
Just remember to start practicing on your Mom's drawer with cheap kitchen knives, not on your Dad's Sebenza,