A follow-up took some time, but here it is.
After some cutting tests with this M2 knife i arrived at a measured edge angle between 22.5 and 25 degrees inclusive, as this seems to be right at the balance point between as thin as possible, yet thick enough.
This edge survives multiple full force cuts into my wooden testblock (a piece of laminated desktop) without chipping or noticeable loss of sharpness.
Afterwards the knife could also still pushcut through this paperback.
Found this gem on YouTube:
Below you see 3 different viewing angles of the edge i recently put on a brand new Sebenza 25 (which had a subpar factory edge)
The owner of the knife took the pictures with a very expensive Leica camera to capture the different looks this edge type can have when seen from different angles.
For obvious reasons i named this a bling & bite finish, and it performs very well on especially high (vanadium) carbide steels.
I first reprofiled the factory edge from 35 degrees inclusive to 30 degrees inclusive with a Rubber Wheel coated with 230 grit diamond powder, then refined it with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and lastly removed the tiny burr with a second Paper Wheel coated with 0.25 micron diamond compound.
The new and ever so slightly convex edge could treetop the hair on the back of my hand (even whittle it a bit) and easily slice single ply toilet paper.
And this was after i tested the edge with a few firm cuts into the edge of a piece of laminated desktop.
Did these chisel ground edges a a few years ago with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and then stropped the burr on the other side off on hard leather with some 1 micron diamond compound.
Both knives were quite blunt, one even more than the other.
The knives are owned by two Dutch Special Forces guys who used & sharpened them while on tour in Afghanistan, and they wanted the new edges to have a little bling.
This second hand Spyderco Military in CPM-D2 steel was one of the first knives i ever sharpened on my standard set of Paper Wheels back in 2009.
It had some blade play (fixed it), some discoloration on the blade (left that) and it wasn't quite sharp (fixed that with the Wheels)
Was part of my edc for several years.
Yes, some time ago i even bought a large piece of MDF to possibly make some wheels out of somewhere in the future.
But at this moment i have some doubts if this material is a truly safe option for that purpose, as i'm not sure if the MDF material will be able to hold up to the centrifugal forces generated by the benchgrinder.
The last thing i want is that MDF pieces would come flying at me at high speeds in the event that such a wheel disintegrates while spinning at between 1400-1700 rpm, especially since there are no steel guards on the machine (like there would be when using the original stone wheels)
There are however people who use home made MDF Wheels for sharpening knives:
A small container filled with SiC particles comes with each set of Paper Wheels, and it's enough to re-coat the sharpening Wheel several times.
Since i started working with Paper Wheels back in 2009 i've experimented with quite a few regritting methods, and the recipe below is what has been working best & longest for me:
1 - First remove all traces of the old wax layer.
For this i use a steel wire brush on the spinning Wheel until most is gone, then i shut the machine down and remove the last remnants with an old rag & brake cleaner.
2 - Then remove all traces of grit & glue until you get to the bare cardboard surface.
For this i use an old coarse silicon carbide stone first and a semi-coarse diamond stone second, but coarse sandpaper on a piece of wood also works well.
3 - Take a good quality water resistant wood glue and coat the bare cardboard surface evenly.
I just use a clean finger while turning the Wheel with my other hand.
Let dry at least overnight.
4 - The next day apply a new and just a little thicker layer of the same glue, and immediately after coat the surface with the grit.
For this i put a thick layer of grit in a small rectangle box or a deep plastic lid from a jar and gently push the surface of the wheel in it, evenly and all the way around.
Put the wheel back on the machine and let dry at least overnight.
5 - The next day run the machine with the wheel for just a few seconds so any loose grit particles fly off.
I also hold my diamond stone shortly to the sides of the Wheel to remove grit particles that stick out there.
Stop the wheel and coat the gritted surface with a very thin & even layer of the same wood glue, so thin you can still feel the grit under your fingertips when you're done.
Let it dry at least overnight.
6 - The next day run the machine and hold an old junk knife a few seconds to the wheel (still without the wax), as this will lay bare the highest points of the grit particles.
Now you can put some wax on the surface (don't overdo it) and sharpen away.
As you can see the process takes some time, but to me it's worth it.
The triple layer of glue makes for a much stronger bond of the SiC grit to the cardboard surface compared to just one layer of glue, and each grit particle is also held better in the glue since it's almost completely encapsulated by it, while the glue itself will wear away easily during sharpening.
This method provides me with a grit Wheel that works perfectly and also lasts longer between regrittings.
Before i completely finished the edge to 15 micron i decided to use it just once, cutting up a box of mushrooms, some bell peppers, and some onions on my end grain wooden cutting board.
The 3 pics below show the result: not only microchips, but larger sections of the apex measuring several millimeters have completely broken off.
I think it's safe to say that a 15 micron edge finish is a bit too coarse for this ceramic material.
New & unused 420HC blade made in 2010 for a Buck 110, and the edge can shave armhair.
The first picture was an attempt to get the lens as close as possible to the point of the blade, while at the same time trying to focus as best as i could, so this is about the maximum enlargement.
New & unused Leatherman Wave 420 steel blade from around 2008:
The edge can hardly cut copy paper due to a rather large burr.
These also belong in this thread:
Danke für dein Beitrag Trabireiter 
Möglich gibt es kein Beitragen von andere Forum Mitglieder in diesen Thread weil sie denken sie müssen für mir Englisch schreiben, aber ich kann einfaches Deutsch lesen und auch ein bisschen schreiben.
Nur wenn Ihr unter einander Deutsch schreibt wird es schnell zu schwierig, aber dann gibt es immer noch Google Translate.
Wenn jemand Fragen oder Bemerkungen hat höre ich es gerne, 
Currently busy removing the microchips from the apex with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound.
The idea is to finish the new apex with only this compound and then find out how the knife will do with the resulting rather coarse edge (for a ceramic knife)
Although it remains quite difficult to capture the scratch pattern in pictures, the USB-microscope proves to be very useful in showing a sharpening fault (picture 1) and an extremely small chip remnant (picture 2).
Picture 5 also shows that the apex is already becoming translucent with this finish at 25 degrees inclusive.
Anyone have experience with Sandrin Cutlery ?
It's an Italian knife company which makes knives out of solid tungsten carbide @ 71 HRC
Lenox Gold bimetal utility blade with titanium nitride coating on it's edge, which also has a microbevel.
The edge fits in the 25 degrees inclusive slot in my Tormek WM200 angle master.
Spyderco Brad Southard black with a CTS-204P blade and a measured edge angle of +/- 35 degrees inclusive:
BTW: this is the USB-camera i have:
On the housing it says 25X - 200X
Making reasonable pictures with an USB-Microscope takes quite a bit of practice, so that's what i'm doing at the moment.
The idea for this thread is to show some pictures of untouched factory edges from various brands, so feel free to contribute if you have some as well.
This is the first one, a factory edge with a buffed apex on a Spyderco Paramilitary 2 in CPM-S110V steel and a measured edge angle of 30 degrees inclusive:
Spyderco aims for 30 degrees inclusive for their factory edges, but that number will vary a bit since most are done by hand on belt sanders.
In their US facility they recently started using a sharpening robot which has lead to better consistency regarding edge angles.
The edge can now no longer cleanly cut the skin of most tomatoes, and on some types even downright sawing motions don't work anymore.
On onions i can feel that initial resistance cutting through the top layers, but on most other foods the knife continues to work well.
It also still scrape-shaves armhair and slices copy paper just fine, so most non-knife people would still call it quite sharp.
Although focussing with my new USB-microscope is still quite the challenge i did manage to take some shots of the current edge from tip to heel, to show the edge damage in the form of microchips as well as the sharpening scratches in the bevels.
My Victorinox magnifying glass had already showed me the larger microchips, but the smaller ones and the scratches which can now be seen clearly had always remained invisible to me.
It looks like i have jumped the other diamond wheels a bit to soon before finishing with the 1 micron diamond wheel, so apparently there is some room for improvement.
