Beiträge von kwakster

    Blade hand reground to it's original full convex blade shape on a Foss 7205 black/green silicon carbide stone used with oil, then refined on 400 grit and 1000 grit SiC wet & dry paper used with oil on glass, and the tiny burr stropped off on hard cardboard with 1.0 micron diamond paste.
    The new apex measures between 20 and 22,5 degrees inclusive.
    Very hard (guesstimate 64-65 HRC) and also very wear resistant steel.
    Handle reassembled, now with all washers glued and pommel repolished, then treated to a few coats of warm Granger's wax.
    Sheath waxed and hand restitched.






    I knew beforehand that the outcome wouldn't be everybody's cup of tea, but for me functionality trumps looks every time.
    Grinding the rough convex form with the diamond file (without apexing) took a few hours in total.
    Most time was spent shaping & smoothing the blade surfaces on the Foss combination stone and the wet & dry paper on glass.
    Visually it's still not 100 % perfect, but the current edge already holds up fine whittling an old piece of hard beechwood cutting board.
    A few more pics:













    For quite a few years this Buck Strider 881 mini tanto in BG42 steel was gathering dust in a drawer, as to me it was more a knife-like object, literally unable to cut anything.
    Over the last few weeks i changed that with the help of my Tormek SB-250 stone (for the point area), a 300 grit diamond file, a Foss 7205 black/green silicon carbide stone, and some 400 grit wet & dry SiC paper on glass (for the straight edge)
    The apex on the now full convex blade measures somewhere between 22.5 and 25 degrees inclusive, and i'm first going to do some test cutting to find out if i can safely lower it a bit more.
    Also rounded the overly sharp G10 grip plates a bit and sanded the screw heads.


    Before:








    While grinding the blade with the diamond file:







    After the 400 grit SiC paper and removing the tiny burr on a piece of hard cardboard with a dab of 1.0 micron diamond paste:






    Considering all work was done with only one eye currently functioning at about 80 % (plus a pair of reading glasses) i'm quite pleased with the result, :)

    Vintage French dagger from the Airborne Foreign Legion 1er Republic France Algeria Indochina (1948-1961)
    Background on this regiment: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1st_Foreign_Parachute_Regiment


    This example that recently came out of the woodwork is marked on the ricasso: "Rodrigues 1880 Amsterdam".
    In pre-internet days this was a well-known hardware store in the Netherlands, and with an owner who was a knife afi with a fondness for quality.
    Sadly he and his wife died in 1977 in the Tenerife aircrash, while going on the first holiday of their life.
    They had no successors.












    Specs:


    Overall length: (29,5 cm)
    Blade length: (18,0 cm)
    Max blade thickness (ricasso): 4,7 mm
    Steel: drop-forged stainless steel
    Guard: stainless steel
    Handle materials: Fiber and brass
    Weight: 241 grams (handle heavy)
    Sheath: leather with 4 metal studs

    My hydrogen generator as it came in (cost: 50 euro including shipping within the Netherlands)
    It produces 800-1200 PPB (Parts Per Billion) of hydrogen gas with 4 Watt of electrolytic power, while the glass can contain 450 ml of water.
    (mineral water is recommended, at the moment i still use tap water)
    With rechargeable stainless steel base where the electrolysis takes place, a thick borosilicate glass midsection, and a stainless steel lid:




    This plastic part can be screwed directly on the business end, filled with water, and is then used to attach a nasal tube for inhaling of the hydrogen gas.
    It also doubles for direct attachment of a prefilled spring water bottle:



    Just today my hydrogen generator came in, and i intend to update this thread with my findings later on.
    Good or bad, if any.


    "What you need to know about hydrogen" interview with Japanese PH.D Shigeo Ohta on YouTube:


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cAgvBzjxG9E


    Medical articles about the general use of hydrogen in humans:


    https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7495244/


    https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5806445/


    The potential utilizations of hydrogen as a promising therapeutic strategy against ocular diseases (having various eye ailments this is what i'm particularly interested in):


    https://www.dovepress.com/the-…wed-fulltext-article-TCRM

    Specifically for scandi grinds on Mora's etc i designed and had this made a while back.
    I call it a "limiter block", as it limits your range of movements while sharpening guided on the Tormek to only back & forth and up & down (for the point area)
    The block can slide along the steel guide rod, and with the screws i can finetune the clamping force.


    The knife is my Mora 2000 which i bought in Sweden in 2006, and which was used as a testbed for various edges, once even with a few serrations just in front of the handle.
    I reground it several years ago using the limiter block, then removed the slight burr on the Tormek leather wheel for a slightly convex microbevel.
    It has been living in my daypack ever since, and the apex has already been refreshed several times on a Spyderco white ceramic stick (when on holiday)










    Tested the newly convexed edge with an apex @ ~22.5 degrees inclusive on an old piece of beechwood cutting board.
    Got quite a bit of microchipping at the very apex but no rippling.
    The steel might indeed be D2 with an estimated hardness at or slightly above 60 HRC.






    Removed all damage by filing the edge flat with a small diamond file, then resharpened to a new apex angle between 22,5 and 25 degrees inclusive.
    Still have to do some new testing on the same wood.

    Daniil Vygovsky, the seller of this fake CS AD10 operated on E-Bay under the name Andros999, but it seems he is no longer active there.
    On Paypal he uses androswizard@gmail.com
    I thought i ordered from Taiwan, but the clone was dropshipped to me by the Chinese webshop Jufule (there was even a thank you letter from them in the box)

    The knife's new home-made Tri-Ad locking mechanism.
    Exchanged the old stop pin (on the right with 4.97 mm diameter) for a thicker one (on the left with 5.43 mm diameter) made from an old piece of drill bit using a drill press together with an angle grinder, gave the lockbar pivot pin a bit more wiggle room using a diamond burr, then hand fitted the various mating surfaces with a small diamond file.
    Now the lockbarhead wedges itself securely between stop pin and lockbar cutout hook in the blade (with room for wear), and there is zero blade play.
    When life gives you lemons make lemonade.






    Short story: a while ago i ordered what i thought would be an original CS AD10 from an E-Bay seller, who specifically stated in the ad that the knife was the real deal and no fake.
    What i received however was an AD10 clone.
    Opened a Paypal dispute, sent the knife back to the seller, then got informed by Paypal that i lost the dispute because the knife never reached the seller.
    Almost had forgotten all about it when the clone was returned to me by the postal service, as it had been undeliverable.
    Since i was apparently stuck with the thing i decided to make it into a project knife.
    Convexed the edge, gave it a wave function, and changed the backlock mechanism into a tri-ad lock mechanism.







    фото


    Abercrombie & Fitch, New York, 1912
    In the center of the photo is a ski-lift chair and a display rack with ski apparati hanging from it.
    Also, there are skis and snow shoes to the right and left of the ski lift chair, repectively and men conducting transactions at the far left and center of photo.







    Abercrombie & Fitch, New York, 1913
    Sporting Goods, Interiors of Salesroom with Customers.



    Abercrombie & Fitch, New York, 1915, Madison Avenue and 45th Street.



    Abercrombie and Fitch store, New York, ca.1910, 44th Street and Madison Avenue

    The links below lead to several downloadable PDF's of old Abercrombie and Fitch catalogs on the website of Pennsylvania's Electronic library.


    A&F 1909 catalog: http://digitalcollections.powe…/pcalo-amc/id/11835/rec/4


    A&F 1913 catalog: http://digitalcollections.powe…n/pcalo-amc/id/7845/rec/4


    A&F 1915 catalog: http://digitalcollections.powe…n/pcalo-amc/id/8248/rec/1


    A&F 1916 catalog: https://archive.org/details/abercrombiefitch00aber


    A&F 1916 Christmas catalog: https://archive.org/details/abercrombiefitch00aber_0


    A&F 1950 catalog: http://digitalcollections.powe…n/pcalo-amc/id/8079/rec/5


    Background info about the company: https://www.acontinuouslean.co…bering-abercrombie-fitch/

    This is my second machine, a model 128 in a treadle, dating from 1925.
    We found it standing on the pavement in front of the home of an older lady, who was going to a smaller apartment and wanted to get rid of it.
    She still remembered her grandmother working with it back in the 1930's, but her mother and she had only kept it all these years for home decoration.
    For 15 Euro we could take it with us :)


    Sadly a few rainy days and nights outside had damaged the wooden table and case somewhat, but the machine itself was still unharmed as it had been covered by the wooden case.
    After i sanded the table i liked the wood grain so much (i think it may be red cedar) that i only treated it with several layers of a good quality mineral oil, and the drawers which normally hang under the table will get the same treatment.
    The machine has been cleaned and oiled, it has been fitted with a new rubber wheel for it's bobbin winder, and a new leather belt that connects the treadle with the machine is on it's way. (E-Bay)
    The treadle mechanism itself already ran smooth & silently on it's ball bearings, but i gave those a few drops of 5 weight Nano-Oil anyway.