Beiträge von kwakster

The new handle already looks way better than the old one, do post more pics when it's fertig.
BTW: modifying knives to improve upon their functionality can quickly become a hobby all by itself, i know all about it,

Vintage Incolma No.131 deluxe quality machete, probably made in the '60's or '70's in Manzales Colombia with the use of technology & machines inherited from the Brothers Weyersberg factory, established sword & other quality cutlery manufacturers in Solingen, Germany.
Noteworthy are the significantly harder as well as more wear resistant steel compared to many modern machetes (noticeable harder than my F.Dick and Öberg files, which just skid on it), the thinner forged & chromed blade, as well as the more luxurious finishing with a metal handle adorned with a lion's head, brass riveted wooden panels, and even a deep and still partially guilded etching in the blade surface.

The machete arrived at my door with a massacred "edge", administered somewhere during it's existence by some blind hack.
As none of my quality files were hard enough to cut the steel even the slightest, i made an initial 30 degrees inclusive convex edge using only a worn-in Chinese 120 grit diamond file, and removed the burr on the Tormek leather wheel with a dab of PA-70 aluminium oxide paste.
The resulting edge can shave arm hair with, as can be expected, a lot of bite.
Haven't decided yet if i'm going to keep it like that or refine it a bit further.

Specs:

Overall length: 23 inches (58,5 cm)
Blade length: 18 inches (45,5 cm)
Blade thickness: tapering from 1.85 mm just before the handle to 0.9 mm just before the point, but negligible from back to edge.
Steel type: chromed carbon steel
Handle material: chromed metal with wood inlay & brass rivets
Weight: 420 grams
No sheath

I have no idea as i've never tried those on MDF (or at all actually)

What i do know is that diamonds are much harder than whatever type of abrasive particles are in both the Puma polishing paste as well as the Bark River compound (both most likely aluminium oxide), so for the actual cutting & polishing of especially vanadium and niobium carbides (these are harder than aluminium oxide) in modern powder steel types like S30V, Elmax, M390, S90V, S110V, K390, etc CBN (Kubisches Bornitrid auf Deutsch) and diamond are your best options by far to get the best edge quality as well as the longest lasting edges on especially those steel types, as only these 2 abrasives can cut literally any type of carbide or nitride.

MDF is short for Medium Density Fiberboard, and you can buy it in stores like Hornbach, Gamma, Praxis, etc.

This would be a dependable US dealer for better quality diamond products: https://www.techdiamondtools.com/
I buy my diamond powders there, but the owner also sells good diamond pastes.
He ships all over the world in small padded envelopes.

They also have a Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/lapidarypaste

Owner: Yuriy Ma
Address: 10511 Glencoe Drive
Cupertino, California
95014 USA

Direct link to his diamond pastes: https://www.techdiamondtools.c…powders-h-of-10-grams-11/

I do not know how much shipping will be to Germany, but for the Netherlands it was very reasonable.

This is the professional grade diamond compound i use on my Paper Wheels as well as for these strops, but it's much more expensive:

https://microstar2000.com/meta…y/26/DIAPAT+Diamond+Paste

This type of strop is what i sometimes make & give to people who regularly bring me a CRK or other quality (Chef-) knife for sharpening and/or some TLC, so they can maintain & keep the appearance of their new edge themselves for some time.
Even a few professional Chefs in my area with expensive gyuto's and santoku's in modern PM steel types are using these same strops with good results, so they keep telling me anyway.
I use them myself as well, and they are easy to make.

It's a new & cut-to-size piece of clean MDF coated with a thin layer of 1.0 micron (+/- 14000 grit) mono-diamond compound, and i put 4 self-adhesive rubber bumpers on the bottom.
These bumpers make the strop non-slip plus they elevate the working surface a bit more which makes the strop more convenient to use on a table (more room for your hands)
Due to the harder surface the chances of rounding your crisp apex are also greatly diminished when compared to stropping on compressible materials like leather.
The strop surface can also be cleaned from time to time with a microfiber cloth and some acetone, which will remove all or most of the swarf without removing the diamond particles, as these become (partially) embedded in the MDF surface during the stropping proces.

But this is (literally) the key element: the placement on rubber bumpers also provides the strop user with acoustic feedback by isolating the MDF from the table (a bit like the bars on a xylophone); you can actually hear when you're arriving at the very apex during stropping movements as the audible sound changes, which makes the stropping proces very easy, even for absolute beginners.

The CRK Nyala used as a prop for the pictures was reprofiled (from 35-40 degrees inclusive to an even 30 degrees inclusive) & sharpened (with 15 micron diamond compound on a Paper Wheel).
The owner only uses this quite expensive knife to cut oranges, about 5 each day, i kid you not,

First step refining the blade surfaces with 240 grit wet & dry SiC paper on a rubber backing using WD40 as a lubricant, while using the Tormek WM200 AngleMaster to check regularly if the apex stays around the 30 degrees inclusive mark:

The Bushcraft Parang already had a convex edge with an apex around 40 degrees inclusive, a bit much for my taste, so i reshaped/reground the blade by hand with a Chinese 120 grit diamond file into a convex form which starts higher up the blade sides and now come together in an apex at around 30 degrees inclusive.
Also did something of a "Kephart-mod", where the upper sides of the blade are ground a bit narrower compared to the midsection.
For the pictures i crosshatched the now thickest parts of the blade, and the next step will be hand sanding the blade surfaces on a few different grits of wet & dry on a rubber backing using WD40 as a lubricant.

The hard shouldered V-shaped edge with an apex of +/- 30 degrees inclusive was changed into a soft shouldered convex shaped edge, also with an apex of +/- 30 degrees inclusive, with the help of a bastard file & a smooth file.
Going to find out how a filed convex edge holds up in my use.
I tried to make the file marks pointing a bit backwards, which will aid in grabbing the thin to medium sized branches this tool is mainly going to be used for.
The final stubborn burr remnants i could not remove with just the smooth file alone were abraded away on the Tormek leather wheel with a dab of PA-70 aluminium oxide paste.
The resulting apex is armhair shaving sharp on skin level, but the slightest sideways motion makes it slice into the skin, so this is not an edge you want to try to shave your face with.
BTW: Condor's 1075 steel is noticeably harder to file compared to the 1055 steel in the Cold Steel machetes.

Starting the new convex bevels by filing the hard shoulders down with an F.Dick bastard file:

Refining the now convex bevels made by the bastard file with an Öberg smooth file:

Done:

While having about the same angle at the apex when compared to the old V-shaped edge, the new convex shaped edge is thinner behind that apex, and it also eliminates most or all of the hard bevel shoulders, making the blade more streamlined and thus more efficient for it's job.
If the steel allows it, with next sharpenings the convex will also be "pulled up" somewhat higher up the blade sides for an even shallower convex shape (while keeping the apex at about the same 30 degrees inclusive angle) for an even further increase of efficiëncy.

Below you can see two pictures of the Eco Golok machete with it's new convex edge resting into the 30 degrees V-shaped slot of my Tormek WM200 AngleMaster, to show that the apex reaches the correct measuring depth for 30 degrees inclusive, and that the bevels behind the apex are thinner than a V-bevel with about the same 30 degrees inclusive apex.
The pics were taken with an old IPad and are far from perfect, but they do give some idea.

The first pic makes the real apex look translucent due to reflecting light from both sides, so the distorted and dark apex-like shape just above it is just some sort of shadow.
Similar effects also make it look like the right side of the convex bevel isn't touching the slot wall, which of course it is.
The second pic is a bit too dark at the apex, but shows the thinner bevels and the lack of shoulders behind it maybe just a bit better.

Click each picture 2 x, then enlarge further to see maximum detail.

For me the Cold Steel kukri machete has proven to be very comfortable with it's contoured PVC handle, and even more so with a fuzzy finished surface.
The PVC tends to shed most of the fuzzy bits after a few days of chopping, leaving a surface that is very hand friendly and doesn't produce any blisters, even with prolonged use (like the factory checquered surface can do)
Being softer, the PVC on this specific model also dampens shock more effectively compared to the harder polypropylene which is on most other Cold Steel machetes (as well as on these Condors)

But contouring & fuzzy finishing really does wonders for both the handling & comfort.
Being so thick, the handles on the Condors offer lots of tough amorphous polypropylene to work with, and being longer also gave me the opportunity to provide each handle with 2 distinct handle positions: one up front for thinner wood and a second one at the back for thick branches and small trees.
Shaping the inside of the flared handle end into a hook proved also very useful, as this tends to guide your pinky inward instead of outward, which is much easier on the hand.
The last two pictures in my post above already show the hook on the Bushcraft Parang, and later i also did this on the Eco Golok.

The Bushcraft Parang now also has a contoured & fuzzy finished handle:

Currently busy finetuning two Condor choppers, a Bushcraft Parang and an Eco Golok machete.
For years i've only used kukri models for trail clearing (a Tora Blades Camping kukri and a Cold Steel Kukri machete) here on the Veluwe, and the plan is to get some hands-on experience using a few other tried & true chopping blades from different parts of the world.

Just did the contouring & fuzzy/chewy finishing of the Golok machete handle with the wood rasp (the Parang will get the same treatment), and tested the blade on a few thick dried oak branches and various green branches.
Very well hardened 1075 steel i must say (no visible flattening or rolling at +/- 30 degrees inclusive), and now the handle is much more comfortable and grippy compared to the thick and slick factory handle (for my hands anyway)
Also no need for additives like grip tape etc.
Both will receive a narrow convex edge later.

Gerne gemacht Thomas,

Update:

I asked Patrick who tested the knife in a commercial kitchen a while ago if he would ever consider buying one of these diamond titanium knives for the retail price they cost, and his answer was no.
His two reasons: in hindsight he found the blade a bit too flexible for his specific uses, plus the knife didn't look anywhere near as good as it performed (after the regrind)
He said the knife just looked cheap, a remark i heard from several people.

If he as a professional Chef were to consider such a diamond titanium knife it would need to have:

- A little more rigid blade.
- A full flat ground blade which would have to be ground noticeably thinner behind the edge, or maybe even have a shallow full convex shape. (more like the reground blade)
- A bit more upscale handle (maybe a traditional wa-shape, be it in real wood or good quality plastic)
- A nice quality box in which the knife would be protected and could be transported safely.
- If possible come complete with a means of maintaining the edge in the kitchen (like for instance a diamond plate)

Patrick thinks that the diamond titanium material might also work well in filleting knives, to which i would like to add fixed diving blades and maybe even folders (with titanium or Zytel handles).
Possible other uses might include specialized knives for cutting various comparatively soft but abrasive materials like cardboard or insulation materials.

The hand-reground santoku that the Chef tested is now in home use with my parents in law, both in their 70's and completely non-knife oriented people.
They are very happy with the knife, praising both it's lightness and it's thinness/cutting ability, and they have even used it several times to cut up larger pumpkins for soup with no ill effects on the blade or edge that i could see.
The knife is used in their home kitchen literally every day, and i've not resharpened it since i gave it to them over a year ago.

It's twin brother (also hand-reground) is in use almost every day in our home kitchen.
For some time now i only use the 2000 grit diamond plate for a touch-up, but this is rarely needed.
Current edge angle measures between 20 and 22.5 degrees inclusive, and the thickness behind the tiny bevel measures around 0.2-0.25 mm.
The knife weighs 83.4 grams, has a toothy edge that never wears smooth, and continues to be a joy to use.

Have you considered the Bastinelli Pika ?
A deceptively simple yet clever design which offers several advantages imo.
At the moment i only have a cheap Chinese clone, but i'm already considering the real thing.

- Very light weight (clone + sheath together weigh only 55 grams)
- Compact and flat design offers comfortable & inconspicuous carry
- Can be put into action very fast due to many different carry options due to the small Kydex sheath and the multi-position clip.
- The ring in combination with the flat grip offers the user the option of holding another item in the same hand (be it a gun, a stick, an umbrella, a handbag, etc)
- Due to that same ring and the small overall size the knife is almost impossible to take away from you by an opponent.

Paper ad from 1926 showing the Wade & Butcher Teddy model on top and the Pioneer, Boone, and Bowie models below:

Das sieht wirklich sehr gut aus, klasse Arbeit

Update on the Takamura R2 210 Gyuto:

According to the Chef this edge done on Paper Wheels lasted him 2 months in his commercial kitchen, which was just as long as the factory edge had lasted him.
During that time he sometimes touched up the edge by stropping it on an MDF strop with 1.0 micron diamond compound until that no longer worked satisfactory (in the last week or so), after which he used a fine ceramic rod on it.
Differences with the factory edge were that the Paper Wheel edge had a slightly smaller edge angle (+/- 20 degrees inclusive instead of +/- 22,5 degrees inclusive), was finer polished, and had a higher sharpness.

We're still in the process of finetuning the edge to his specific requirements, and next time he brings in the knife it will probably get a little less refined edge to see if it's useful life can be prolonged a bit more.
In his kitchen the real edge killers are the mandatory plastic cutting boards which are very abrasive on knife edges, together with the almost unavoidable tiny sand particles which sometimes remain in the huge quantities of vegetables that need to be processed.

Currently busy with modifying another large sawback scout knife, this one manufactured by the no longer existing Solingen based firm of Kronenkrebs.
The stag handle was way too thick for my hands, and the low sabergrind geometry was far from ideal for it's intended use as a large allround camp knife / chopper.
The quality of the drop-forged steel in the blade however makes it worthwile for me to put in some elbow grease.
This is how the knife looked when i bought it:

First i ground the old "edge" flat on the Tormek SB-250 stone, then ground down the blade's center ridges on both sides with a Chinese 120 grit diamond file, then reshaped the blade from a low sabergrind into a full convex one with the help of a somewhat modified cheap Parkside linisher that can now also be used as a slack belt grinder.

This is the machine i have:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHvbVhnNuAU

Refining the blade surfaces as well as the actual forming & refining of the apex area was done by hand on grits 240 and 400 wet & dry paper using WD40 as a lubricant, while the burr was removed on the Tormek leather wheel.
The new apex can whittle a chest hair from hair root to hair tip @ about 30 degrees inclusive.
The grinding & sanding of the blade also automatically resharpened the sawback's teeth, and the full convex blade shape makes that the sawback is now the blade's thickest part, which reduces the chances of jamming when using it for sawing or notching.

The slack belt linisher also proved very useful for shaping a new handle made from 12 thick rubber washers, each one cut from an old piece of very wear resistant & triple fiber weave reinforced industrial conveyor belt.
The ground & shaped rubber has a very nice tactile feel to it and i suspect that it will also dampen shock quite effectively, which will aid it's use in it's intended role.
Also made a thick aluminium guard as a replacement for the factory installed useless piece of flimsy brass.
Guard & pommel are now permanently installed using 2-ton epoxy, while each rubber washer is glued to the next with a good rubber glue which stays flexible.

The knife is now ready for some field testing, and if that turns out satisfactory some more refining steps will follow.
This is how it currently looks (sheath has been waxed but still needs to be restitched):

Specs:

Overall length: 33,5 cm (13.9 inch)
Blade length: 21,0 cm (8.27 inch)
Max blade thickness: 5,7 mm
Steel type: drop-forged low alloy carbon steel
Handle materials: Aluminium guard & pommel with rubber washers
Weight: 388 grams
Sheath: leather

The blade has been refined through grit 800 and 1000 wet & dry (again using WD40 on the piece of conveyor belt), removed the very fine burr on the Tormek leather wheel, and the apex can now whittle one of my chest hairs from root-to-tip at about 3.0 centimeters from the point of holding.
Also polished the aluminium pommel a bit on a felt wheel, recut the swedge with a small diamond file, and next step is to refine the swedge surfaces a bit more.

This is how the knife currently looks:

Some more vintage footage about old school knife making in Sheffield:

Bridlington, October 1978
After 72 years as a blade forger in Sheffield, Albert Craven has finally decided to retire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpeyhC-UIFg

Two knife grinders at work:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qfXYBheE_Fs

A website dedicated to various things Sheffield, among which several clips related to knife making:

http://www.alexglenwilson.com/2018/05/10/little-mesters/

Footage from the 1960's where the same George Goodwin (now 77 years old) shows how he makes the crucibles:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOS05k1C7zM

Also this fascinating color documentary made in 1945 about large scale steel manufacture in Sheffield.
In the beginning there is even some footage of crucible steel manufacture.

http://film.britishcouncil.org/steel